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No. 273,727. Patented Mer. 13,1883.

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BUTTON HOLE: ATTACHMENT EOE SEWING MACHINES.

No. 273,727. Patented Mar. 13,1883.

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BUTTON HoLE ATTACHMENT EOE SEWINGr MACHINES.

NoB 278,727.

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UNITED *STATES PATENT Ormea.

JOSEPH P. HALLENBEOK, OF NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE NATlONAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF TROY, N. Y.

BUTTON-HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHlNES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 273,727, dated March 13, 1883.

Application h'led August 30, 1&8'2.

To all whom 'it may concern:

Beit known that I, JosEPn P. HALLEN- BECK, a citizen ofthe United States, residing in the city of New York, in the State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Button-Hole-Feeding Mechanisms for Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

My invention relates principally to improvements in mechanisms for feeding to sewingmachines button-holes having one end rounded or eyelets-shaped.

The general object of my improvements is to provide a very effective, durable, and easilyadjustable mechanism, which, when properly combined with a sewing-machine adapted to make the common lock-stitch, chain-stitch, or other suitable stitch from a continuous thread or continuous threads, shall be capable ot'holding and automatically feeding to the stitchforming devices of the sewing-machine fabrics having button-holes of various sizes with one end rounded or eyelet-shaped, so as to thereby cause the rapid and thorough binding of the edges of such button-holes all around by a series of overedge-stitches, which radiate along the semicircular end and are substantially parallel along the sides of each button-hole, and which, by adjustments in said mechanism, can be made ot' different uniform lengths and at various uniform distances apart, and to rmly bar the narrow end of the button-hole.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is perspective view of one of my improved button-hole-feeding mechanisms combined with a sewing-machine adapted to produce the wellknown lock-stitch, the work-holder being represented in position to present the middle part of the rounded end of -a button-hole to the stitch-making devices. Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 9b indicate some of the various arrangements of stitches that can be made along the sides and' around and across the ends of button-holes by means of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1 and modifications thereofhereinai'ter described. Fig. 10 is a plan of the same button-hole-feeding mechanism re; resented in Fig.1,but detached from the sewing-machine,

(Model.)

and showing the work-holder in one of its positions at or near the beginiiing of the feeding and stitching of a buttonhole along one side. Fig. 11 is a plan of the same feeding mechanism with the work-holder in one of the positions it occupies after the completion of the stitching ofthe edges of the button-hole and while the narrow end ot the button-hole is being barred, as indicated in Figs. 2, 3, or 4. Fig. 12 is a plan ot' a portion of the same feeding mechanism, some ot' the `parts being removed, some others represented in section, and those shown heilig in the same positions as in Fig. l. Fig. 13 is a side elevation ofthe same feeding mechanism, and Fig. 14 is a vertical longitudinal section thereof at about the line z z in Fig. 11, and elevation of some parts viewed in the direction pointed by the arrow z in the latter figure. Figs. 15,16, 17, 18, and 19 are partial transverse sections and elevations ofthe same mechanism, all viewed in the direction indicated by the arrow y in Figs. 10, 13, and 14, in which the places of the sections are indicated by broken lines, to wit: for

Fig. 15 by the line y y', for Fig. 16 by line :n x, for Fig. 17 by line w for Fig. 1S by line w w, and for Fig. 19 byline w w. Figs. 20, 2l, 22, 23, 24, and 25 are isometrical views, showing some parts of the same mechanism on a smaller scale.

Similar parts are marked by like letters in the diti'erentgures, and the directions in which some of the parts move or are movable in use are indicated by adjacent arrows.

One special object of this invention is to provide efficient means by which a sewing-machine having an eye-pointed needle constantly supported and actuated by one end part and moving to and fro endwise in one line only, with coacting devices for making common lock-stitches, chain-stitches, or other suitable stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads can automatically bind the edges ofan eyelet-end button-hole by a series of overedge-stitches that radiate along the semicircular outer edge ofthe eyelet end, and are essentially parallel along the other edges of the button-hole, substantially as indicated in Figs. 2, 3, 4, 6, or S. For this purpose I combine with such a sewing-machine a button-hole TCO ',holder momentary intermittent to and fro movements to form the overedge-stitches, and,

also7 first a progressive lengthwise movement, with a gradual transverse movement in the last part of said lengthwise movement, to place the overedgestitches substantially parallel to each other along one side of the buttonhole, as from c to n; next a progressive semicircular movement to place the overedge stitches radially along the rounded end of the button-hole, as from o to u, and next a progressive lengthwise movement, with a gradual transverse movement in the iirst partl of said latter lengthwise movement, to place the overedge-stitches essentially parallel to each other along the other side of the button-hole, as from u to u. By this combination of the buttonhole work-holder and feeding mechanism with a sewing-machine which makes common lockstitches or other suitable stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads, eyelet-end button-holes are bound all around by a series of overedgestitches in which two stretches of binding-th read extend on each side of the fabric from the edge of the button-hole to each perforation made in the fabric by the needle. rlhe aforesaid combination which produces this result is substantially different from and far superior in utility to the combination ofabutton-hole work-holder and feeding mechanism with asewing-machine,usingonlyashort thread and a needle which is wholly passed through the fabric at each perforation, as in hand-sewing, whereby an eyelet-end buttonhole can he bound by a series of overedgestitches in which only one stretch of bindingthread extends on each side of the fabric from each perforation to the edge of the buttonhole.

In carryin gout my aforesaid vcombination the Howe, Singer, Wheeler St Wilson, Willcox 8s Gibbs, or other suitable sewing-machine which produces the lock-stitch, chain-stitch, or other suitable stitch from a continuous thread or continuous threads can be employed, and various combinations of mech anical devices can be used for imparting the several aforesaid movements to thehutton-hole work-holder from the needle bar or lever, or from a rotary cam or shaft, or from other suitable part of whatever sewing-machine shall be used. The sewing-machine and construction of feeding mechanism which l commonly prefer are represented in part in Fig. 1, wherein A is the stationary bed, A the bracket-arm, A2 the driving-shaft, A3 the needle-operating lever, A4l the needlebar, and A5 the take-up lever, ofa No. 7 Wheeler& Wilson sewingmachinefthe usual presser bar and foot and feeding device being removed, and the parts that coactrwith the needle a in making lock-stitches being covered by my work supporting and feeding mechanism.

The work-holder in my improved mechanism may be like some clamping devices or feed-feet that are used in buttou-hole-sewing mechanisms, and can have any suitable construction that will secure the proper accurate holding of the button-hole fabric for the action of the stitching devices. In the mechanism shown in the drawings the work-holder consists of an oblong feed-foot, B, Figs. 10, 11, 13, 14, 19, conformed to an eyelet-end button-hole, and havingteeth balong its lower edge, and jointed at b b to a spring-arm, b2, that is hinged at b3 to` a carrier, C, which has a spring, C', for elevating the arm b2, and is furnished with a cam-lever, O2, by which the feed-foot can be depressed into an opening, c, in said carrier, and there held with a spring-pressure on the button-hole work, Z, Fig. 14, which is supported by a smooth surface on which the carrier moves, so that the button-hole work will be securely held and moved upon said smooth surface by the feed-foot.

As a preferred means for imparting from a sewing-machineto the button-hole work-holder the several lnovements required to make the mechanism automatically bind an eyelet-end button-hole by a series of overedge-stitches that radiate along the semicular end edge and are essentially parallel along the other edges of the button-hole, I combine with the workholder a bar or lever that is adapted to be moved to and fro by the sewing-machine, and devices for imparting from the bar or lever to the work-holder a step -by-step lengthwise movement, next a step-by-step semicircular movement, and next a. step-hy-step lengthwise movement, a gradual transverse movement iu one direction in the last part of said `first lengthwise movement, a gradual reverse transverse movement in the first part of said latter lengthwise movement, and momentary to-andfro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise and semicircular movements. All those movements are imparted to the work-holder B in the mechanism represented by the drawings, by suitable devices, from a bar or lever, D, that can be connected with a sewing-machine, so as to be thereby moved to and fro in harmony with the movements of the sewing-machine needle. For this purpose a switch-cam, A6, Fig. 14, is fast on the rotary shaft A2 of the sewing-machine shown in Fig. 1 and D', Figs. 14 and 15, is a follower, pivoted at d to the bar or lever D and engaging with the cam, the whole being so combined that just after one withdrawal of the sewingmachine needle from the work in the workholder the lever or bar D will be moved in one direction, and will be moved in the opposite direction just after the next withdrawal ofthe needle,`and so on repeatedly.

As a greatly preferred method of imparting tothe work-holder the aforesaid lengthwise and semicircular lnovements and gradual transverse movements in Areverse directions just before and aftersaid semicircular movement, I mount the work-holder on a suitable movable support and combine with the work-- ICO I IO

IIS

holder and its said support mechanism forimparting to the work-holder, upon and separately from said support, the said lengthwise and semicircularmovements,and forimparting to said support, and thereby to the workholder, the gradual transverse movements in reverse directions just before and after the semicircular movement. I also greatly prefer to combine with the work-holder and its said support means for automatically imparting to said support, and thereby to the work-holder, intermittent momentary to-andfro movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the work-holder and during its said lengthwise and semicircular movements.

E, Figs. 1, 10, 20, is a bed-plate which is to be firmly secured to or may constitute the base of the sewing-machine.

F, Figs. 1, 10, 12, 22, is a plate which supports the work-holder and its immediate carrier, and is movable to and fro in or on ways or guides e e', Fig. 20, on the base E; but the part F can be made movable to and fro about a pivot in an extension of the line w w', Fig. 10, in carrying out the primary parts of this invention.

rlhe work-holder B and its carrier C partake of all the movements ofthe support F, and are also movable to and fro lengthwise and in a semicircle upon and separately from that support. For accurately directing and imparting the aforesaid lengthwise and semicircular movements to the work-holder upon and separately from the support F, the following construction is commonly preferred, to wit: The part F is formed with two straight opposite guides,ff, Figs. 12 and 22, and with a semicircular guided, Fig. l2, extending between the guides fj". A disk, Gr, Figs. 12, 19, 24, is mounted on or in the part F, so that the disk can be turned to and tro in a semicircle along the guide f2, and the disk has a short guide,g, which is like either ofthe guidesff in crosssection, and is directly opposite to and forms acontinuation of either theguidefor the guide j", when the disk is at one or the other end ot' its semicircular movement, as in Figs. 10,11, or 19. The disk G and the work-holder carrier C are respectively formed or furnished with straight guides g and c', Figs. 2t and 25, which t together and are parallel to the lengthwise direction of the work-holder, and also parallel to the guidesff, when the disk G is at either end of its semicircular movement. The carrier C is also formed or furnished with a guide, c2, Fig. 25, which fits and is movable along each of the guidesf,f, f2, and g, and the part C has a feed-gear, c3, with a semicircular portion between two parallel straight parts and engaging with a driving gear-wheel, H, thatV is carried by the partF, and is mounted to rotate thereon abouta stud, h. rlhose parts are so arranged that when the workholder carrier U is in the position represented in Figs. 10 and 19, with the guide c2 engaged with the guidef, by then turning the gear-'wheel H in the direction pointed by the arrow .s2 the carrier C will be rst moved in a straight course in the lengthwise direction of the workholder, as pointed by the arrow s in Fig. 10, until the part c2 engages with the guide g ot' disk G and leaves the guide f. The gear H will then engage with the semicircular part of the feed-gear c3, and will turn the carrier C, with the disk G, through a semicircle, while the part c2 remains engaged with the guide g and passes along the guidef2 and until it is opposite to the gudef. rlhen the gear-wheel H will engage with the other straight part of the gear c3, and the part c2 will engage with and move along the guide f', while the carrier C is being again moved in a straightcoursein the lengthwise direction of the work-holder, as indicated by the arrow s in Fig. 11. By turning the gear-wheel H in the reverse direction the carrier C will be moved backward from its place in Fig. 1l to its position in Figs. 10 and 19. For limiting the turning movement of the disk G on the part F, these parts are formed or furnished with stops g2 g2 and f3, Fig. 21.

For imparting to the slide F, and thereby to the work-holder mounted thereon, the aforesaid gradual movements transverse to and during the lengthwise movements ofthe workholder, and in reverse directions just before and after its aforesaid semicircular movement, to cause the proper placing ot' the overedgestitches along theinnerparts of the eyelet end of a button-hole, as from c2 to oand from u to u?, Figs. 2, 3, or 4, I combine with the slide F and the gear-wheel H, from which the lengthwise and semicircular movements are imparted to the work-holder, means whereby said Agradual movements in reverse directions shall be imparted to the slide F from said gearwheel. This object can be accomplished by various devices; but l commonly prefer for that purpose to have the gear-wheel H furnished with a cam, I, Figs. 12 and 18, having the two concentric connected parts z' t" of different radii, and an elbow-lever, J, pivoted at j to the slide F, and having on one arm a follower, j', engaging with the cam I, and the other arm, j, engaging with a stop or abutment, 7c, on a part, K, which is stationary in respect to said gradual movements to be imparted to the slide F, and thereby to the workholder. These parts are so combined that when, by the turning of the gear-wheel H, the work-holder carrier C approaches the end of its trst straight movement in the direction indicated by the arrow s in Fig. 10, the follower j on the lever J will gradually pass at i2 from the ealn-arc z'to the cam-arc i', alid will thereby cause the lever J, with the stop k as a fulcrum, to give to the slide F, and thereby to the carrier C and work-holder, a short gradual movement in the direction pointed vby the arrow t in Fig. 10, also, when by the turning of the gear H'the work-holder carrier U has tinished its semicircular movement and is in the first part of its second lengthwise movement, the follower j' will then gradually pass at i3 IOS IIS

from the cam-arc i to the cam-arc t', and will thus cause the lever J to move the slide F, with the carrier C and work-holder, a short distance in the reverse direction. (Indicated by the arrow t', Fig. l1.)

To adapt the mechanism for feeding buttonholes having eyelet-shaped ends of different sizes, I provide means for conveniently altering the lengths ofthe aforesaid gradual movements imparted to the slide F and work-holder carrier just before and after the semicircular movement of thelatter, and preferably by making the abutment-stud k for thelever J adjustable along its arm 3'2 to dii'erent distances from its pivotj. For that purpose the stud 7c, Fig. 17, is closely surrounded by a collar, k', fitting in the slotted arm jz, and has an internal screw-thread engaging with a clamp-screw, k2, having .a` head fitting in and adjustable along a recessed groove, k3, Fig. 23, in the part K.

The wheel H and cam I may be in one piece; but for convenience in construction and to provide for adjusting the cam on the wheel and into proper relation to the followerj and the semicircular and straight parts ot' the feedgear c3 on the work-holder carrier, the cam I, Figs. 12, 14, 18, is preferably made ina separate piece from the wheel H and mounted concentrically thereon, and formed with acurved slot. h', and furnished with a headed screw, h2, Fig. 18, extending through said slot and adapted to clamp the cam tothe gear-wheel in somewhat different positions.

Various devices can be used for imparting to the slide F and t-he work-holder thereon momentary to-and-t'ro movements transverse to the direction ot' the aforesaidlengthwise movements and during said lengthwise, semicircular, and gradual transverse movements ot' the work-holder. For that purpose the driving-lever D is pivoted at e2 to the base E, and is connected by a link, D2, to a lever, L,

Ywhich is pivoted at e3 to the base E, and embraces a part, M., on the part K, which inA this case is fitted to slide between guides f1 f5, Figs. 17,21, 22, on slide F, and against the base E at e, so that to-and-fro movements shall be imparted to the slide K by the to-andfro movements of the lever D or L, and the toand-fro movements of the slide K are imparted to the slide F through the lever J and cam I, which connect the two slides, as above specified.

To adapt the mechanism lton produce overedge-stitches of different lengths or of different depths from the edge ot' the button-hole, I provide means for altering the lengths of the momentary to-and-fro movements imparted to the work-holder with and by the slide F, carrying the work-holder. For this purpose the rod or link D2 is connected to the levers D and L by pivots d and l, Figs. 15 and 16, which are adj ustable along those levers to diii'erent distances from theirfulcrums by clamping devices indicated in the drawings, so that while the to-and-fro movements of the lever D rem ain the same, diierentlengths of to-and-lro movements can be imparted therefrom to the slide F and the work-holder by the adjustable link D2, lever L, part M, slide K, and the aforesaid parts by which the vslides K and F are connected together.

Figs. 14 and 16 show means for so adjusting the part K, and consequently the slide F, carrier O, and work-holder B, in respect to the driving-lever L that when the mechanism is combined with a sewing-machine thev workz holder shall be in proper position in respect to the Working point of the sewing-machine needle to insure the placing of the overedgestitches in the right positions in relation to the edge of whatever eyelet-endbntton-hole shall be properly held by the work-holder. For this purpose the part M, which connects the slide K with lever L, is made adjustable along that slide by a stud, K', which supports the part M, and tits by a tongue on its lower end into a slot, le, Fig. 23, in the part K, and can be fastened at different points along that slot by a screw-bolt. m, extending through the part K and slot 7a4, and having a head, m', at the bottom and a clamping-nut, m2, at the top.

To avoid having an open space between the throat-plate through which the needle works and the plate which surrounds the throat-plate, and to avoid the sliding ofthe button-hole work upon said plates in its toand-fro movements by and with the work-holder in directions transverse to the length of the slitin the button-hole and to the lengthwise movements of the Work-holder, and thus avoid the consequent liability of displacing the buttonthroat-piece to the slide F, on which the work-- holder is mounted, and I have the throat-piece N of circular form and t it in a circular perforation, g3, Fig. 24, in the disk Gr, carried by said slide.

To provide excellent means for imparting to the work-holder carrier C a faster movement while turning in a semicircle than while moving instraight courses; to properly space the overedge-stitches along the rounded end and sides ot' the button-hole, I combine with the work-holder carrier C and its driving-gear H a pinion, 0, Figs. 10, 11, l2, 1,4, means for imparting directly to said pinion, and thereby to the gear H,.a slow step-by-step rotary movement, and means for imparting directly to the gear H independently ot' the pinion O faster step-by-step rotary motion only while the gear Hengages with the semicircularpartofthe gear c3 of the Work-holder carrier. For imparting said slow motion to'the pinion O and faster movement to the gear-wheel H, various wellknown pawl-and-ratchet or friction devices can be used. For thus turning the pinion O on a stud, o, on the part F, a fine-toothed ratchet- IOO IIO

wheel, P, of much greater diameter than the pinion O, is firmly secured to thelatter, and is furnished with a driving-pawl, Q, having an engaging-spring, g, or with two or more such pawls adapted t0 alternately engage with the teeth of the ratchet-wheel.

For imparting the occasional faster movement to the gear-wheel H, the latter has fast thereon a coarse-toothed ratchet, It, Figs. 10, 1l, l2, furnished with a driving-pawl, S, having an engaging-spring, s3, and so arranged that the pawl S shall engage with and actuate the ratchet only while the gear H engages with the semicireular part of the feed-gear c3.

For imparting the proper to-and-fro movements to the driving-pawls S and Q from the driving-lever D various devices can be used; but for these purposes I commonly prefer to have the driving-pawl S pivoted on and carried by a bar, S', Fig. 12, which is titted to slide in a guideway,f6, Fig. 22, in the part F, and `has a joint-connection with the lever D, and to have the pawl Q mounted on and carried by one arm of an elbow-lever, Q', which is pivoted concentrically with the ratchet-wheel P, and has its other arm connected by a rod, L', to the lever L, which is linked by the rod D2 to said drivin g-lever.

To render the mechanism capable of placing the overedge-stitches at dili'erent uniform distances apart along the side edges of the button-hole, I provide means for conveniently altering the length ofthe steps imparted to the work-holder in its lengthwise movements. For that purpose the rod L' is connected to the levers L and Q' by pivots l' and q', Figs. 16 and 18, that are adjustable along those levers, substantially as shown in the drawings. y

'Io adapt the mechanism for placing the Overedge-stitches at various uniform distances apart along the semicircular end of the button-hole, I provide means for altering` the lengths of the steps imparted from the lever D to the work-holder in its semicircnlar movement. For that purpose the sliding bar S', which carries the pawl S, is connected to the lever D by a stud, d2, Fig. 15, that is adjustable along that lever by devices substantially as shown in the drawings.

To cause the proper engagement ot' the driving-pawl S with the teeth of the ratchet R, whatever shall be the length of the to-andfro movements imparted to that pawl by the slide S', a guide-shield, T, Fig. 12, is adjustably secured to the part F by headed screws t2, reaching through slots t3 in the shield, so that the shield T can be set to keep the pawl S out ofthe ratchet-teeth while the pawl is retracted, as in Fig. 10, and to guide the pawl so that it shall at each forward movement properly engage with the right number of ratchet-teeth, whatever shall be the adjustments of the other parts of the mechanism.

'Ihe ratchet R may be in one piece with either the wheel. H or cam I, or separate from and secured to the wheel or the cam.

To make the pawl S begin and end its ac t tion on the ratchet R at the right points to properly turn the wheel H in relation to the beginning and ending of its engagement with the semicircular part of the feed-gear c3 of the work-holder carriera two shields, i' t", Figs. 10, 11, 12, 14, are adjustably secured to the stock of the ratchet 1t by screws r2, whereby said shields can be adjusted along the ratchet, so as to cause the pawl S to commence and end its action on the ratchet at various different points, as may be required by other adjustments of the mechanism.

To provide means whereby the work-holder carrier can be easily moved forward by hand in its straight and semicircular courses, and also backward when the pawls Q and S are thrown out of their positions for engaging with the ratchets P and R, the ratchet-wheel P or the pinion O is furnished with a handpiece,p, Figs. 1, 10, and 14. For conveniently throwing the pawls Q and S out of and into their positions for engaging with the ratchets P and R, a pawl-shifter, U, Figs. 10,11, 14, is mounted so that it can be easily turned to and fro by its handle a3 about the axis or hub of the ratchet-wheel P, and has projections a4 a5, so shaped and arranged in respect to the pawl Q and a pin, S5, on pawl S that when the part U is turned into its position in Fig. 1() the pawls will be in place to engage with the ratchets, as shown in that figure, and that by turning the shifter' U from its place in Fig. 10 to its position in Fig. 11 the pawls will be moved and held away from the ratchets, as represented in Fig. 11, so that a person can then, by the hand-piece p, easily rotate the pinion O backward, and thereby cause the backward movement ofthe work-holder carrier C from its place in Fig 1l to its position in Fig. 10.

U', Figs. 10, 11, 13, is a spring-dog, which is secured to the part F, and bears'against the pawl-shifter U, and will engage with either ot' the notches o' o2 in the shifter, and thereby insure the holding of the shifter in either of its positions shown in Figs. 10 and 11, but so that the shifter can be easily turned by hand from either one of those positions to the other.

In Fig. 14,1)l is a headed screw tightly engaging with a screw-thread in the journal-stud.

o of the pinion O and wheel P, aud 192 is a somewhat elastic washer or packing pressed by and between the head of the screw and the wheel, so as to produce friction against the latter, and thereby prevent that wheel from being turned by the backward movement of the pawl Q and its carrying-lever Q', or by the to-and-fro turning of the pawl-shit'ter U, or by the momentum of the parts.

To limit the backward movement of the work-holder carrier U to the proper place for beginning the stitching of the button-hole, I secure to the part F a stop-piece, V, Figs. 11, 12, 19, 22, which can be fastened by a screw, r3, Fig. 19, at different distances from the needle-hole a in the throat-piece N to suit the various lengths of button-holes to be worked.

To make the mechanism capable of properly IOO feeding an eyelet-end button-hole to bar its narrow end, I provide means by which the part F, and thereby the work-holder carrier C, can be moved to and fro in a direction transverse to the lengthwise movements of the work-holder carrier, and in addition to its aforesaid other movements. For this purpose the part M, Figs. 1, 12, 14, 16, fits in an elongated opening, Z2, Fig. l2, through the part or lever L, and is in the form of an eccentric or cam, as shown in section in Fig. 12, and has a lateral arm, M', and is mounted so that it can be turned by hand by said arm to and fro on the stud K', Figs. 12 and 13, a distance limited by stops W and X, Figs. 10, 11,-13, and 16, on a cap, m3, on said stud, which is firmly secured to the part K. These parts are so arranged that by turning the cam M by its arm M' from its place against the stop W shown byFigs.1,10,12,and 16 to its position against the stop X shown by Figs. 11, 13, and 14 the part K, and consequently theslideF and workholder carrier G, will be moved in the direction pointed by the arrow t a proper distance to change the placing of the overedge-stitch es from one side edge of a button-hole to across its slit, as at w in Figs. 2er 3, and so that by turning the cam M by its arm M' from its position against the stop X to its place against the stop W the part K, and consequently the parts F and (l, will be moved a like distance in the reverse direction pointed by the arrow tto change the placingof the overedge-stitch es from across the slit of the button-hole to one side edge thereof.

The stop X is provided with a screw and nut, by which the stop can be adjusted along a curved slot, m4, Fig. 10, in the cap m3 to different distances from the stop W, as required when different lengths of overedge and barring stitches are made.

To retain the cam M in whatever position it shall be placed by turning its arm M', a compressed friction -producing spring, m5, Figs. 13 and 14, is interposed between the part M and cap m3; or to return the arm M to and keep it against the stop W whenever the arm shall be released after being turned to or toward the stop X, a retracting-spring, m5, Fig. 16, may have one end secured to the p part M and the other end to the cap m3.

To cause overedge lock-stitches around a button-hole to appear on the upper surface of the fabric, substantially as indicated in Fig. 2, the tension on the lower thread in the sewingmachine -is made so great in respect to the tension of the needle-thread that only those parts of theoveredge-stitches that consist of the needle-thread x2 are left exposed on the upper surface of the fabric. To cause the overedge loclrstitches around the button-hole to have the appearance indicated in Fig. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 on the upper surface of the fabric, the tension of the needle-thread is made so great in respect to the tension of the under threadin the sewing-machine that the needlethread draws loops of the under thread,y2, up

through and over the fabric to the inner edge of the button-hole, along which edge the needle-thread :1:2 is left extending in aline through the loops of the under thread.

In using the above-described feeding mechanism in combination with a sewing-machine to stitch eyelet-end button-holes, the workholder carrier C is first moved by the handpiece p into the position shown in Figs. 10 and 19, with the guide c2 against the stop V, and the button-hole Work Z, Fig. 14, is placed under and pressed and held by the feed-foot B upon the smooth upper surface of the plates G N Where exposed through the opening c in the carrier of the work-holding foot. Then, if the narrow end ofthe button-hole is to be left unbarred or barred by a bunch of stitches, as indicated in Figs. 2 or 3, the arm M' of cam M is placed and left against thestop W and the pawl-shifter U is set, as in Fig. 10, so that the pawls Q and S will be in place to operate the ratchets P and R, respectively. Then the sewing-machine is put in operation, and imparts intermittent momentary to-and-fro movements of uniform length to the lever D, from which lever, by devices above described,a continuous series of uniform intermittent momentary toand-fro movements are imparted to the slide K, and thence to the slide F, and thereby to the carrier G and Work-holder B, to form overedge or to-and-fro stitches. While these in termittent momentary to-and-fro movements are being thus communicated to the work-holder further movements are imparted thereto from the lever D by the above-described connecting and'in. the direction pointed by the arrow s in Fig. 10, to place the overedge-stitches along one straight edge of the button-hole from c to 02, Figs. 2 or 3, and while this straight move, ment of the carrier C is being somewhat con` tinued across the slide F a step-by-step movement is imparted to slide F, and thereby to the carrier C separately from the slide K, and in the direction pointed by the arrow t, Fig. 10, to place the overedge-stitches along one side edge of the eyelet-end part ofthe buttonhole from e' to c. Next a step-by-step semicircular movement in the direction pointed by the arrow s', Fig. 1, is given to the carrier C and holder B separately from the slide F, to place the overedge-stitches, radially along the semicircular end of the button-hole from n to u. Next a straight lengthwise step-by-step movement is imparted to the carrier C and work-holder B in the direction pointed by the arrow s in Fig. 11 and separately from the slide F, land at the same time a short step-by-step movement is given to the slide F, and thereby to the carrier C and holder B, in the direction pointed by the arrow t', to place the overedgestitches along the other side edge ofthe eyelet end of the button-hole from u to u2, and then the latter straight lengthwise movement of the carrier C and work-holder is continued to place IIO IZO

the stitches along the other straight side edge of the button-hole from u2 to n. Then, to bar the narrow end of the button-hole, as indicated at to2 in Figs. 2 or 3, the pawl-shifter U is turned by hand from its position in Fig. 1() to its place in Fig. 1l. to stop the lengthwise movement ofthe work-holder, and at the same instant the arm M ofthe cam M is turned by hand from against the stop W, as in Fig. 10, to against the stop X, as in Fig. 1l, to change the placing of the overedge-sritches from the side to across the narrow end of the buttonhole, as at wz, and then, by a few ofthe stitches there placed together, the end of the buttonhole is barred, whereupon the sewing-machine is stopped, the stitchiugand barring ot' the button-hole being completed.

To bar the end of the button-hole in the manner indicated at'w3 in Fig. 4, the pawl-shit'ter U is to be kept in the position shown in Fig. l0, and the arm M of the cam is placed against the stop X at the starting of the sewing-niachine, and is there held until a first straight row ot' a few progressive barringstitches is iliade, as atw* in Fig. 5. lhen the arm M is instantly turned to against the stop lV, and is left in that position while the overedge-stitclr ing progresses along the button'- hole from Q: to u', and when the latter point is reached the arm lli is instantly turned to against the stop X and there retained until the barring is completed by a second short row of progressive to-and-fro stitches placed over thetirst row, whereupon the action ot' the sewing-machine and feeding mechanism is stopped.

To bar the narrow end of a button-hole, as indicated in Fig. 6, the pawls Q and S are to be kept in position to turn the ratchets Pand lt, and the arm M ot' cam M is first held against the stop X, and then, as each to-andfro stitch is produced, the arm M is turned a step toward the stop W, so that when the arm reaches the latter stop a few progressive barring-stitches have been made in an inclined course, as from e* to n in Figs. 7 0r6. Then the arm M is left against the stop YV until the edges of the button-hole are stitched from a to u', and then the arm M is turned a step toward the stop X as each to-and-t'ro stitch ismade until thearni reaches the latterstop, and arow of barring-stitches extends in an inclined course from u to v4, as in Fig. 6.

To bar a button-hole, as shown in Fig. S, the pawls Q and S are kept in place to turn the ratchets P and R, and the arm M of the stitchshifting cani M is placed first against the stop X as the lever D is moved into its position in Fig.'l0, and next against the stop W as the lever D reaches its place in Fig. 1l, and so on repeatedly' until a few long barring-stitches are made in a straight row, as from v5 to n in Figs. 9 or 8. lEhen the arm M is left against the stop N, as in Fig. 10, until the edges of the button-hole are stitched from n to u', and then the arm M is turned first against the stop X as the lever D is moved into its position in Fig. 10, and is next moved to against the stop W as the lever D is moved into its position in Fig. 11, and so on repeatedly until a second straight row ot' a few long barringstitches is made to overlap the tirst row, as from u to v6 in Fig. 8.

In case the mechanism is to be used to feed to a sewing-machine a button-hole having one open rounded end and one side edge continued in a straight line to the semicircular end of the button-hole, substantially as indicated in Figs. 9 or 9b, the above-specified short step-- by-step transverse movement of the workholder in one direction by and with its carrier C and the slide F just before or after the semicircular movement of the work-holder is to be omitted byshortening the cam-arci and lengtheuing the cam-arc t" of the cam l at one or the other end, as indicated by dotted lines at i* or 115 in Fig. 12. By having the arc i ofthe cam I extended at both ends, as indicated by the dotted lines at i* and 5 in Fig. 12, the mechanism can be used to feed to a sewing-machine a button-hole having both side edgescontinued in straight line to a semicircle at one end.

In thedrawings, the waysff for the workholder carrier C are shown perpendicular to the direction of movement of the slide F, but can be somewhat inclined thereto, as indicated by the line Y Y in Fig. 12, and the other parts conformed to such variation,ifdesircd, to make the overedge-stitches appear more nearly perpendicular to the edges of the button-hole. For a similar purpose, instead of imparting a step movement to the gear H at each movement of the lever Dr in one direction only, or at each second ascent ot' the needle of the sewing-machine, as above set forth, a step movement can be imparted to the gear H from the. lever D or from the sewing-machine by well-known pawl-and-ratchet feeding devices at each movement of the lever D in either direction, or at every ascent of the sewing-machine needle. I

When the mechanism is being used the parts which do not hold the button-hole fabric and are not moved directly by hand are generally covered by a casing or casings. (Not shown in the drawings, but shaped and arranged to prevent contact ofthe fahricwith-the gearing and other driving parts of the mechanism.)

That portion ofthe mechanism which serves to impartto the work-holder by its carrier O, first a progressive straight lengthwise movement with a gradual transverse movement in one direction in the latter part of said lengthwise movement, next a progressive semicircular movement,and next a. progressive straight lengthwise movement with a gradual reverse transverse movement in the tirst part of said latterlengthwise movement, is not limitedin its use to its combination with devices for imparting to the work-holder by its carrier C intermittent momentary to-and-fro movements trailsverse to the direction ot'said lengthwise movement and throughout its said lengthwise and semicircnlar movements, butcan be successfully used to impart the same lengthwise, semicir- IOO IIO

- well -known devices.

cular, and reverse transverse movements to the button-hole work-holder in combination with a sewing-machine in which to-and-fro oroveredge stitches are produced by reason of the lateral to-and-fro movements of the needle or by other Thus the mechanism shown in the drawings is adapted to feed fahrics having eyelet-end button-holes to a suitable sewing-machine which makes to-and-fro or overedge-stitches by leaving out the de- ,vices for imparting from the lever D intermittent momentary to-and-fro movements to the part K, as by disconnecting the part K from the lever L and fastening the part K to the stationary part E, or by disconnecting the part L from the levers D and Q', suitably connecting the lever Q to the lever D independently of the part L, and making the part L stationary ,on the base E.

I believe that in some button-hole-stitching.

mechanisms devised before my present invention a button-hole work-holder, in the operation of stitching an eyelet-end button-hole, has received from automatic means, first a step-bystep lengthwise movement and a short lateral movement in one direction in the last part of said lengthwise movement, next a stepby step semicircular movement, and next a stepby-step lengthwise movement and a short reverse lateral movement in the first part ofsaid latter lengthwise movement, and sometimes intermittent momentary to-and-t'ro movements transverse to said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise and semicircular movements, an example being described in United States Patent No. 50,989. In that example, however, a short thread is used and the needle is passed entirely through the fabric, as in hand-sewing, and the work-holder receives a momentary transverse movement in one direction at each ascent of the needle and a momentary transverse movement in the opposite direction at each descent of the needle, to form overedge-stitches in which only one overedge thread or stitch extends on each side of the fabric from each perforation made by the needle.

Prior to this invention eyelet-end buttonholes had been bound by a series ot' overedgestitches by means of automatic mechanism consisting of a sewing-machine having an eyepointed needle moving to and fro laterally,as well as endwise, to form overedge-stitches, in combination with a button-hole work-holder and mechanism for imparting to the workholder, lirst a progressive lengthwise movement with a short gradual lateral movement in the last part of said lengthwise movement, nexta semicircular movement, and next a progressive lengthwise movement with a short gradual reverse lateral movement in the tirst part of said last lengthwise movement. Such prior mechanisms requiredas a necessary element a sewing-machine having an eye-pointed needle moving to and fro laterally. Consequently in such prior mechanisms it is impossible to use any of the vastnumbers ofcommon lock-stitch and chain-stitch sewing-machines that are in use throughout the country and do not have the needle move to and'fro laterally. By my invention-I avoid all necessity for having the needle of the sewing-machine move to and f'rolaterally in mechanisms for binding eyelet-end button-holes by a series ot' overedge lock-stitches or ch ain-stitches, and accomplish the very important object of furnishing simple and etl'ective means whereby the com-` mon lock-stitch and chain-'stitch sewing-machines that do not have the needle move to and fro laterally can be used in binding eyelet-end button-holes. That object'l attain by providing for or combining with such a sewing-machine a suitable button-hole work-holder and mechanism for imparting to the work-holdera progressive lengthwise movement, next aprogressive semicircular movement, next a progressive lengthwise movement, short gradual lateral movements in one direction in the last part of said irst lengthwise movement and in the opposite direction in the rst part of said last lengthwise movement, and also momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise and semicircular movements.

A button-hole-feeding mechanism composed of a suitable work-holder, a lever or bar adapted to be moved to and fro by asewing-machine, and mechanism for imparting the aforesaid progressi velen gthwise, semicircular, short lateral, and momentary to and fro transverse movements to the work-holder, all from said bar or lever only, is believed to be new, and is of very great practical importance, because it can be very easily and cheaply combined for use with any suitable common lock-stitch or roo IOS

chain-stitch sewing-machine by placinga-nd securing such feeding mechanism in t relation tosthe sewing-machine and properly connecting any suitable moving part of the latter with said bar or lever only of the feeding mechanism.

What I claim as my invention isfl l. The combination, with a sewing-machine having an eye-pointed needle and means for moving the needle to and fro endwise and for producing therewith stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads, substantially as specified, ot' a button-hole work-holder and mechanism for imparting to the work-holder a progressive lengthwise movement, next a progressive semicircular movement, next a progressive lengthwise movement, short gradual lateral movements in one direction during the last partof said first lengthwise movement and in the opposite direction durin g the first part of said last lengthwise movement, and intermittent momentary to and fro movements transverse to said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise and semicircular movements, and in one direction at one ascent ot' the sewing-machine needle and in the oppog IIC 2. The combination, with a button-hole work-holder and mechanism for imparting to the work-holder a step-by-step semicircular movement, progressive lengthwise movements prior and subsequent to `said semicircular movement, and shortI gradual transverse movementsjust before and after said semicircular movement, substantially as set forth,ot' means for altering the length of said gradual traitsverse movements of the work-holder, substantially as described.

3. The combination, with a button-hole work-bolder and means for imparting to said work-holder a semicircular` movement, lengthwise movements prior and subsequent to said semioircular movement, and gradual traitsverse movements just before and after said semicircular movement, and for altering the length ot said gradual transverse movements, substantially as described, of means for imparting to said work-holder intermittent momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and during said lengthwise, semicircular, and variable transverse movements, substantially as set forth.

4. The combination, with a button-hole work holder and a bar or lever adapted to be moved to and fro by a sewing-machine, ot' mechanism for imparting from said bar or lever to the work-holder a step-by-step lengthwise movement, nexta step-by-step semicircular movement, next a step-by-step lengthwise movement, and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise and semicircular movements, substantially as set forth, and means for altering the lengths ot'said momentary to-and-fro movements ofthe work-holder, substantially as described.

5. The combination, with a button-hole work-holder and a bar or lever adapted to be moved to and fro by a sewing-machine, of mechanism for imparting from said bar or lever to the work-holder, tirst a step-by-step lengthwise movement, next a step-bystep semicircular movement, next a step-by-step lengthwise movement, a step-by-step short lateral movement in the last part of said tirst lengthwise movement, and momentary to-andfro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise, semicircular, and short lateral movements, all substantially as described.

6. rlfhe combination, with a button-hole work-holder and a bar or lever adapted to be moved to and fro by asewing-machine, of means for imparting from said bar or lever to the work-holder, first a step-by-step lengthwise movement, next a step-by-step semicircular movement, next a step-b v-step lengthwise movement, a step-by-step short lateral movement in the rst part of said last lengthwise movement, and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise, semicircular, and short lateral movements ot' the work-holder, all substantially as described. i

7. The combiuation,with abntton-hole workholder and a bar or lever adapted to be movedto and fro by a sewing-machine, of mechanism for imparting from said bar or lever to the work-holder, tirst a step-b v-step lengthwise movement, next a step-by-step semicircular movement, next a step-by-step lengthwise movement, step-by-step short lateral movements in one direction in the last part of said first lengthwise movementand in the opposite direction in the rst part ot' said last lengthwise movement, and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and throughout said lengthwise, semicircnlar, and short lateral movements, all substantially as set forth.

8. The combination, with abutton-hole workholder and a movable support, F, for the workholder, of mechanism for imparting to the work-holder upon and separately from its said support, first a progressive lengthwise movement, next a progressive semicircular movement, and next a progressive lengthwise movement, substantially as described, and means for imparting to said support, and thereby to the work-holder, a short gradual movement transverse to and during thelatter part of said tirst lengthwise movement ofthe Work-holder, substantially as set forth.

9. The combination.withabutton-hole workholder and a movable support for the workholder, of mechanism for imparting to the work-holder upon and separately from its said support, first a lengthwise movement, next a semicircular movement. and next a lengthwise movement, substantially as described, and means for imparting-to said support, and thereby to the work-holder, a short gradual movement transverse to and during the lirst part of said latter lengthwise movement ot' the workholder, substantially as set forth.

10. The combinati-on, with a button-hole work-holder and a movable support for the work-holder, ot' mechanism for imparting to the work-holder upon and separatelyfrom its said support a semicireular movement and prior and subsequent lengthwise movements, substantially as set forth, of means for imparting to said support, and thereby to the work-holder, short gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the work-holder and in opposite directionsjust before and after its said semicircular movement, substantially as described.

l1. The combination, with a button-hole work-holder and a movable support for the work-holder, of mechanism for imparting to the work-holder a semicircular movement and a prior and subsequent lengthwise movement upon and separately from its said support, sub stantially as set forth, and means for imparting to said support, and thereby1 to the workholder, short gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the work- IOO IOS

IIO

IIS

holder and in opposite directions just before and after its said semicircular movement, and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the workholder and during its said lengthwise and semicircular movements,substantially as-described.

12. The combination, with a button-hole Work-holder, a movable support, F, for the work-holder, anda lever adapted to be moved to and fro, of mechanism for imparting from said lever to the workholder a step-by-step semicircular movement and prior and subsequent lengthwise movements upon and separately from its said support, and to said support, and thereb7 to the work-holder, step-bystep movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the work-holder and in opposite directions just before and after its said semicircular movement, all. substantially as described. Y

18. The combination, with a button-hole work-holder, a movable support for the work- 'holder, and a lever adapted to be moved to and fro, of mechanism for imparting from said lever to the work-holder a step-by-step semicircular movement and prior and subsequent step-by-step lengthwise movements upon and separately from said support, and to said support, and thereby to the work-holder, momentary to-and-l'ro movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the workholder and throughout its said semicircular and lengthwise movements, all substantially as described.

14. The combination, with a button-hole work-holder, a movable support for the workholder, and .a lever adapted to be moved to and fro, of mechanism for imparting from said lever to the work-holder a semicircular movement and prior and subsequent lengthwise movements upon and separately from said support, and to said support, and thereby to the Work-holder, short gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements, and

just before and after said semicircular movement of the work-holder, and momentary toand-fro movements transverse to said lengthwise movements and during said semicircular and lengthwise movements, all substantially as described.

15. The combination, with a button-hole work-holder, its support, and means for imparting to the work-holder a step-by-step semicircularv movement and prior and subsequent lengthwise movements upon and separatei y from said support, and forimparting to said support, and thereby to the work-holder, gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements, all substantially as described, ot' means for altering lthe lengths ot the steps of the work-holder in its said semicircular movement, substantially as set forth.

16. rlhe combination, with a buttonhole work-holder, its support, and meansfor imparting to the work-holder a semicircular movement and prior and subsequent step-bystep lengthwise movements onv and separately from its said support, and for impartingto said support, and thereby to the work-holder, gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements,substantally as set forth, ofmeaus for altering the lengths of the steps of the work-holder in its said lengthwise movements, substantially as described.

17. The combination, with a button-hole work-holder,itssupport,andmechanismforimparting to the work-holder semicircular and lengthwise movements upon and separately from said support, and for imparting to said support, and thereby to the work-holder, gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements, and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to said lengthwise -movements and during said semicircular and lengthwise movements of the work-holder, substantially as set forth, of means for altering the lengths of said momentary to-and-fro movements of said support and work-holder, substantially as described. 18. The combination,l with a button -hole work-holder and the plate G, of mechanism for automatically imparting a semicircular movement toI both the work-holder and said plate together, mechanism for moving the work-holder lengthwise upon and separately from said plate before and after said semicircular movement, and mechanism for imparting to said plate and work-holder together gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the work-holder and in reverse directions just before a'nd after saidv semicircular movement, all substantially as described.

19. The combination, with a button-hole IOO work-holder, plate Gr, and a lever, D, of mechanism for imparting from said lever a semicircular movement to both the work-holder and said plate, a lengthwise movement to the work-holder upon and separately from said A plate before and alter said semicircular movement, and momentary to-and-fro movements to said plate and work-holder during said semicircular and lengthwise movements, all substantially as described.

20. The combination, with a button-hole Awork-holder and the plate G, of mechanism for imparting a semicircular movement to said plate and work-holder together, mechanism for moving the work-holder lengthwise upon and separately froml said plate before and after said semicircular movement, and mechanism fnrimparting toboth the work-holder and said plate gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements justebefore and after said semicircular movement, and momentary to-and-lro movements throughout said lengthwise, semicircular, and gradual transversemovements,allsubstantiallyasdescribed.

21. The combination, with plate F, plate G, carried by plate F, and a button-hole workholder on plate G, of mechanism for imparting a semicircular movement to the work-holder and plate Gr together, mechanism for moving the work-holder lengthwise upon anti separately from said plates before and after said.

IZS

semicircular movement, and mechanism for imparting to plate F, and thereby to plate G and the work-holder, short gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements of the work-holder and in opposite directionsjust before and after said semicircular movement, all substantially as described.

22. The combination, with plate F, plate G, carried by plate F, a button-hole work-holder on plate G, and a lever adapted to bevibrated, of mechanism for imparting from said lever a semicircular movement to the work-holder and plate G together, lengthwise movements to the work-holder betore and after said semicircular movement, and momentary to-aud-f'ro movements to plate F throughout said semicircular and lengthwise movements, all substantially as described.

23. The combination, with plate F, plate G, carried by plate F, and a buttonhole workholder mounted on plate G, of mechanism for impartingr a semicircular movement to the work-holder and plate G together, for moving the work-holder lengthwise on plate G before and after said semicircular movement, and for im parting to plate F short gradual movements transverse to said lengthwise movements just before and after said semicircular movement, and momentary tO-and-fro movements throughvout said semicircular and lengthwise movements, all substantially as described.

24. The combination, with plate F, and the work holder carrier U, having the U-shaped feed-gear c3, and mounted and movable upon and carried by said plate, of means for imparting to said work-holder carrier straight movements and an intermediate semicircular movemeut upon plate F, and to the latter short gradual movements transverse to'said straight movements ofthe work-holder carrier, and in opposite directions, before and after the said semicircular movement, all substantially as described.

25. The combination, with plate F, workholder carrier G, having the feed-gear c3, and mounted and movable upon and carried by said plate, and a lever adapted to be moved to and fro, ot means for imparting from said lever to said work-holder carrier straight step-by-step movements and an intermediate semiciicular step-hy-step movement on said plate, and to the latter momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction Mof said straight movements and during said straight and semicircular movements, all substantially as described.

26. The combination, with plate F and workholder-carrier U, having the feed-gear c3, and mounted and movable upon and carried by said plate, of means for automatically imparting to the work-holder carrier straight movements,and an intermediate semicircular movement upon said plate, and to plate F short gradual movements transverse to said straight movements, and in opposite directions,just before and after said semicircular movetnent, and momentary to-and-fro movements throughout said semicircular and lengthwise movements,

all substautiahy as described.

27. The cotnbii1atioti,with a plate, F, adapted to be moved to and fro, of a plate,G, carried by and movable to and fro in a semicrele on plate F, a work-holder carrier, G, having the U- shaped feed-gear c3,aud mounted on and movable to and fro in a semicircle with plate G, and adapted to be moved to and fro iu a straight course on the latter plate, and a gear-wheel, H, mounted on plate F and engaging with said feed-gear, substantially as described.

2S. The combination, with plate F, of plate G, mounted and movable in a semicircle on plate F, work-holder e trrier C, havingthe U- shaped feed-gear c3,and mounted on and movable in a semicirole with plate G. and movable to and fro in a straight course ou the latter plate, gear-wheel H, mounted on plate F and engaging with s tid feed-gear, and means for turning said gear-wheel and imparting to plate F short gradual movements in opposite direc' tions just before and after the engagement of said gear-wheel with the semicircular part of said t'eedgear, .substantially as described.

29. The combination, with plate F, of plate G, mounted on and movable iu a setnicircle on plate F, work-holder carrier G, having the U- shaped feedgear o3, and mounted on and movable in a semicircle with plate G, and adapted to be moved to and fro in a straight course on the latter plate, gear-wheel H, mounted on plate F and engaging with said feed-gear, and means for turning said gear-wheel and simultaneously imparting momentary to-and-fro movements to plate F, substantially as described.

30. The combination, with plate F. of plate G, mountedon and movable in a semicircle on plate F, work-holder carrier C, having the feedgearcs, and mounted on and movable in a semicircle with plate G, and adapted to be moved to and fro in a straight course on the latter plate, gear-wheel H. mounted on plate F and engaging with said feed-gear, and means for turning said gear-wheel and for im parting to plate F momentary to-and-t'ro movements and short progressive movements in opposite directions just before and at'ter the engagement ot' said gear-wheel with the semicircular part of said feed-gear, all substantially as described.

3l. 'lhecombination,w1thabutton-holeworkholder anda throat-piece, N, having an oblong needle-hole, u, ot' means for automatically imparting to the work-holder lengthwise and semicircularmovements upon said throat-piece, and to said throat-piece and work-holder together progressive movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and just before and after said semicircular movement, substantially as described.

32. The combination, with a button-hole Work-holderand throat-piece,N, having theoblong needle-hole n, ot' means for automatically imparting to the work-holder lengthwise altd semlciroularmovements upon saidthroat-pece, and to said throat-piece and work-holder to- IOO gether progressive movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and before and after said semicircular movement, and momentary to-and-t'ro movements in thesaine transverse direction land during said semicircular and lengthwise movements, all as lset forth.

33. The combination, with plate F and acircular throat-piece, N, having an oblong needle-hole aml fast on said plate, ofthe plate G, tilting closely arouml said throat-piece, a button-hole Work-holder mounted on plate Gr, and means t'or automatically imparting` a semicircular movement to plate-Gand the work-holder together, lengthwise movements to the workholder upon plate Gbel'ore and after said seitlicircular movement, and short progressive movements to plate F in opposite directions just before and after said semicircular movement, all substantiallv as described.

34. The combination, with plate F and circular throat-piece N, fast on said plate, ot the plate G, fitting closely around said throat-piece, a button hole work-holder mounted on plate Gr, and means t'orautomatically imparting asenticircular movement to plate G and the Workholder together, lengthwise movements to the work-holder upon plate Gr bef-re and after-said semicircularmovetnent,and momentary to-andfro movements to plate F throughout said semicircular and lengthwise movements, all substantially as described.

35. Tite combination, with plate F and the circular throat-piece N, fast on said plate, of the plate Gr, fitting around said 'throat-piece, a button-hole work-holder on plate G, and means for automatically imparting a semicircular movement to plate G and the work-holder together, lengthwise movements to the workholder upon plate Gr before and after said semicircular movement', and to plate F short progressive movements in opposite directions before and after said semicrcular movement, and moinentaryto' and fro movements throughout saidksemicircnlar and lengthwise movements, all slbstantially as described.

36. The combination, with pla-tc F, adapted to be moved to-and-fro, and circular throatpiece N, fast on that plate, and having an oblong needle-hole, n, ot thcplate G, ttingclosely 'around and movable to and fro in a semicircle about said th roat-piece, the work-holder carrier (l, having the feed-gear c3, and adapted to be moved to and tro in a semicircle with plate G and to and fio in a straight course upon 'the latter plate, and a driving-gear, H, mounted on plate F and engaging with said feed-gear, Substantially as described.

37. The plate F, furnished with the `circular throat-piece N, and having the straight guides ff diametrically Vopposite to the throat-piece, and formed to :tit a guide, c2, on the workholder carrier C, the curved 'guide fz, extending between the straight guides and concetttric With the throat-piece,and a recess extending between the throat-piece and curved guide,

aud-formed to receive and support the plate G l straight and semicircular courses, aud the' ush with the throat-piece and permit plate G to be turned to and-fro in a semicircle concentric with the throat-piece and curved guide, as set forth.

38. The plate G, formed with the circular opening g3 and to lit in a recess in plate F, and to be turned therein to and fro in asemicil'cle closely around and Hush with a circular throatpiece, N, on the latter plate, and having the radial guide g, like the guides fj" in cross-section, and the guides g' g'parallel to guide g, and formed to tit the guides c c ot' the workholder carrier C, substantially as shown and described.

39. The Work-holder ea rrierC, furnish ed with a button-hole work-holder, B, and having the opening c, U-shaped feed-gear c3, guides c' c', formed to tit the guides g g ot' plate G, and the guide c2, formed to tit the guide g otl plate G andthe guidesff ot' plate F, substantially as described.

40. The combination, with the plate F, having the straight guidesff, intervening curved guide f2, and circular throat-piece N, ot' the plate G, having the opening g3 and radial guide g, and mounted to be turned to and fro in a semicircle on plate F along and between said throat-piece and curved guide, and the work-holder carrier U, adapted to be move-d to and fro in a semicircle ith and in a straight course upon plate G, and having the guide c2 formed and arranged to engage with the guides f, g. and f in succession, substantially as described.

41. The combination, with plate F, plate G, adaptedto be moved to and t'ro in a semicircle on plate F, and work-holder carrier C, h'tted to be moved to and fro in a semieircle with and in a straight course upon plate G, of the stop V, arranged on and adjustably secured to plate F, substantially as described.

42. The combinatiomwith the base-plate E,

of tite plate F, mounted to slide to and fro along ways or guides on said base-plate, plate G. mounted to move to and iro in a setnicircle on plate F, and work holder carrier O, mounted on plate G and fitted to be moved to and fro in a semicircle with and in a straight course upon the latter plate, substantially as described.

43. The combination, with the plate F,Work holder carrier G, having the U-shaped feedgear c3, and mounted on said plate and movable thereon in semicircular and straight course's,and the gearwheel lvl,mounted on said plate and engaging with said feed-gear, substantially as set forth, of means forimparting trom said gear-wheel to plate F short progressive movements in opposite directions before and after the engagement ot' said gearvvheel with the semicircular part of said feedgear, substantially as described.

44.. The combination, with the plate F, adapted to be moved to and fro, work-holder carrier C, having the feed-gear c3, and mounted on said plate and movable thereon in IOO IOS

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driving gear-Wheel H, mounted on said plate and engaging with said feed-gear, substantially as described, ot' the cam I on said gear-wheel, separate abutment 7c, and lever J, connecting said cam, plate, and abutment, substantially as set forth.

45. The. combination, with the plate F, movable to and fro, work-holder carrier C, having the feed-gear c3, and mounted on said plate and movable thereon in semicircular and straight courses, and the gear-wheel II, inutilited on said plate and engaging with said feedgear, substantially as described, of the cam I on said gear-wheel, separate abutment 7c, lever J, connecting said cam, plate, anti abutment, and means for altering the lengths of the movements imparted from said gear-wheel to saidplate by said cam, lever, and abutment, substantially as set forth.

46. Thecotnbination,With the pla-te F, movable to and l'ro, work-holder carrier C, having the feed-gear c3, and mounted on said plate and movable thereon in straight and semicircular courses,and the gear-wheel H, mountedou said plate and engaging with said feed-gear, substantial-ly as described, of the cam I on said gear-wheel, separate abutment la, lever J, connecting said cam, plate, and abutment, and means for automatically turning said gear- Wheel and for imparting momentary to-andfro movements to said abutment 7c, substantially as set forth.

47. The combination, with the base-plate E. of the slide K, slide F, connected with and adapted to be moved to and fro byand also separately from slide K by means substantially as described, and the work-holder carrier U, carried by slide F and adapted to he moved thereon to and fro in straight and semicircular courses, as set forth.

48. The combination, with the work-holder carrier C, slide F, carrying the work-holder carrier, and slide K, connected With slide F, substantially as described, of means for automatically imparting straight and semicircular movements to the Work-holder carrier on slide F. short progressive to-and-lro movements to slide F separately from slide K, and momentary reciprocating movements to slide K, all substantially as set forth.

49. The combination, with the work-holder carrier G, slide F, carrying the Work-holder carrier, and slide K, connected with slide F, substantially as described, of a lever, D, and means for imparting from said lever straight and setnicircular movements to the Work-holder carrier upon slide F, short progressive toand-fro movements to slide F separately' from slide K, and momentary reciprocating movements to the latter slide, all substantially as set forth.

50. The combination, with the base-plate E, slide F, and work-holder carrier G, having the feed-gear c3, and carried by said slide and movable thereon in straight and semicircular courses,substantially as described, of the gear- Wheel H, carried by said slide and engaging with said feed-gear, cam I on said gear-wheel, slide K. lever J,connectingsaid cam and slides, lever D, and means for imparting from said lever momentary reciprocating movements to slide K and step-by-step rotary motion to said gear-Wheel, substantially as set. forth.

5l. The combination, with the base-plate E, slide F. and work-holder carrier (j, having the feed-gear c3, and carried b vsaid slide and movable thereon in straight and semicircnlar courses,substnntiallyas described,of the gearwheel H, carried by said slide and engaging with said feed-gear, cant I on said gear-wheel, slide K, lever` J, connecting said cam and two slides, lever L, link D2, lever D, and means for imparting step-by-step rotary motion to said gear-wheel from the latter lever, substantially as set forth.

52. The combination, with the Work-holder carrier C, having the U-shapcd feed-gear c3, and adapted to be moved in straight and semicircular courses, substantially as described, of the. gear-Wheel H, engaging with said feedgear, pinion O, engaging with said gear-Wheel, and -means for imparting slow rotary motion to said pinion and, independently ot' said pinion, faster rotary motion to said gear-wheel, While the latter engages with the semcircular part. only of said feed-gear, substantially as described.

53. The combination, with the Work-holder carrier U, having the feed-gear c3, and adapted to be moved in straight and semicircular courses, substantially as described, ofthe gearwheel H, having the ratchet It, furnished With pawl S, pinion O, having the ratchet-wheel P, of greater diameter'than the pinion, and furnished with pawl Q, and means for operating said pawls, substantially as set forth.

54. The combination, with the Work-holder carrier C, having the feed-gear c3, and adapted to'be moved in straightand semicircularcourses, substantially as described, of the gear-Wheel H, furnished with the ratchet R and pawl S, pinion O, furnished with the ratchet-wheel P and pawl Q, lever Dfand means for imparting to-and-fro movements to said pawls from said lever, substantially as set forth.

55. The combination, with the Work-holder carrier G, having the feed-gear c3, and adapted to bemoved i n straightand semicircularcourses, substantially as described, of the gear-Wheel H, pinion 0, ratchet-wheel P, pawl Q, pawlcarrying lever Q', driving-lever L, and rod L', connecting said levers, substantially as set forth.

56. The combination, with the work-holder carrier having the feed-gear c3 and adapted to be moved in straight and semicircular courses, gear-wheel H, and pinion I, of means for imparting slow rotary motion to said pinion and faster step-by-step rotary motion to said gear- Wheel independently ot' said pinion, substantially as set forth, and means for altering the length ofthe steps imparted to said gear-wheel independently of said pinion, substantially as described.

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